• Steph Anderson

Kgalagadi Desert Wander (part 1)

Updated: Sep 3, 2018

My husband, Graeme, and I have just returned from an absolutely amazing holiday to the #Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Probably not the first name you think of when looking to go on an #AfricanSafari…..but maybe it should be!

This finger of #SouthAfrica sandwiched between Namibia and Botswana is truly sensational.

So, following a 12 hour drive from Johannesburg in our trusty Toyota Hilux, affectionately named ‘Warthog’ or Hoggie for short, we arrived at the park gates and #TweeRivieren, the biggest rest camp in the park, but compared to camps you’ve seen in Kruger NP it’s tiny with just 30 units and a small campsite, shop and pool. All 3 rest camps in the park are very pleasant but what you’ve really come here for are the bush camps. These tiny unfenced camps comprising of just 4 units and manned by an armed camp ranger are simply magical.

After an overnight stop at #Nossob Rest Camp we set off to our first bush camp, #Grootkolt and after driving for 20 minutes we stopped at Cubitje Quap waterhole in time to witness a Black Backed Jackal catching a Cape Turtle Dove for breakfast, what a sight! However, with still 100km to travel we hit the road again, keen to reach our destination. The temperature was rising and so were the vultures, eager to catch the morning thermals after being grounded for the night. We passed the usual suspects, Ostriches, Wildebeests, Jackals along with various birds of prey before happening upon 4 #SpottedHyaena huddled together on the sandy road taking advantage of the shade offered by the only tree in sight.

Finally, we reach our home for the next 3 nights, hut #3, about 1km from the ‘main’ road. This accommodation made simply from sand bags and canvas is basic, room for 2 single beds

with an en-suite shower room, there’s a small kitchen outside along with a braai. However, the only waterhole in the area is 100 metres from our stoep, so who cares! We poured ourselves a large G&T and just sat and waited. We didn’t have to wait long before a herd of Blue Wildebeest and #Springbok came to quench their thirst, clearly nervous they didn’t stay, and it wasn’t long before we realized why. In strutted 2 beautiful #lionesses to take possession of the only water around. They drank their fill before settling under a tree for the rest of the afternoon. That put pay to any other visits for a while.

Soon after sunset they departed for their hunting grounds leaving the door open for the Brown Hyenas and Jackals to take their turn in the spot light.

By the end of our 3 nights, we’d seen a further 2 lionesses, this time accompanied by 2 black maned #Lions all covered in blood after a good night’s hunt, a group of 5 Cheetah, numerous Jackal, Brown Hyaena, a Cape Fox, Bat-Eared Foxes and #Gemsbok. However, the highlight had to be a further 2 lionesses accompanied by a juvenile male and 4 tiny cubs all playing at the waterhole. Could it get any better!


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